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Sunday 16 June 2019

Paris Feb 2019 Saturday


With an 11am timed booking for the Louvre, we headed out quite early for a walk down through the city. 

Doors, fantastic doors everywhere you look.


Just a few tourists around and not much traffic. We found the traffic here surprisingly polite and considerate. Being more accustomed to the madness of London traffic, this came as a bit of a surprise. There were lots of electric vehicles and electric scooters - apparently quite new to the city and so far pretty unregulated. I've just read an on-line article reporting that there have been dozens of accidents and even a fatality, so that's going to change.


The Gallerie Vivienne, built in 1823 with worn but still beautiful mosaic floors.


Roman Equestrian Statue of Louis XIV in the center of the Place des Victoires.


With gorgeous shops. Look at this wedding dress ...


This was a bit of a surprise, but a welcome resting place on what was going to be a hot day.


The Church Saint-Eustache, built in 1532, overlooking the park with this amazing sandstone scuplture of  a head being cupped in a hand. It's called "L'Écoute" which means 'listen'.  (Henri de Miller 1986)



Then down into this enormous underground shopping centre complete with shops, gym, cinemas and it's own entrance into the Louvre.




As anyone who has ever been to the Louvre will tell you, it's enormous. So, on a first visit it's all you can do to see the highlights.  It's also crazy busy with people. I rather liked the scuplture garden.




And the Rubens room with 24 paintings commissioned by Marie de'Medici (widow of Henri IV) in 1622. 



Having recently re-read 'The Girl with the Pearl Earring' (which is in a collection in The Hague) I was keen to see 'The Lacemaker' but that was out on loan. 'The Astronomer' had to do, and it did quite well. 


A quick stop for tea and sublime patisserie at Angelina's



Having made further plans for the afternoon, we had to do some race walking down the corridors to find the most famous - yes, the 'Mona Lisa', but with quick stops to see the Apollo Gallery,


Venus and the Three Graces by Botticelli



and more ...



We almost missed it!





Having impulsively booked theatre tickets for the afternoon show we had to hurry, but as we reached the exit gates they clanged shut (a bit Bastille like).  A Mouvement des gilets jaunes (yellow jackets) march. Initially sparked by high fuel prices, using the yellow high-visibility vests all drivers are compelled by law to have in any vehicle, some of the protests have been extremely violent, but not this time fortunately.










It was all quite good natured, but they weren't letting us join the crowd so we had to backtrack.


I can't find any information about this street-art picture, but Louise Michel was an anarchist (1830 - 1905) who belonged to the Paris Commune, was deported only to return 8 years later as politically active as ever. She continued the long tradition of revolution and her spirit obviously lives on.



And, from one extreme to another - the Folies Bergère. Thank goodness for Uber, we made it in time for the Jean Paul Gautier show, Fashion Freak Show. It was great! Part catwalk show, part revue, outrageous, shocking, fun.  It'll be in London in July, see it if you can.










That was a memorable day!

Thursday 13 June 2019

Paris February 2019 Friday

How lucky are we? All it takes to do a weekend in Paris is to book the tickets on the Eurostar, meet up with Tarryn at London St Pancras (making for a very early start) and get on to the train. There are queues, but the sun is shining, the forecast is good, Paris!, no problem.



This is the speed of the train. I found myself motion sick! That was a first for me, not pleasant.


Two hours and fifteen minutes later .... voila!



I have been to Paris before, but it was only a fleeting visit and on a tour bus. This time we booked a very central hotel and the plan was to walk and see the city.


Arriving in time for lunch we found ourselves at a bistro around the corner from the hotel. It would become our local for the weekend. Great staff and good food.  I practised my 10 words of french, Tarryn did better, but everybody we came across this weekend was very tolerant of our struggling attempts to communicate. There wasn't any overt sneering. We did laugh a lot though. Perhaps that was the wine. When in France .....



What to do?  What to do?  We didn't really have a plan.  Our hotel - Hôtel de L'Océan in the 9th arrondissement. Walking distance for pretty much everything so perfectly situated for a base in Paris. That first afternoon we headed up the (steep) hill to Montmartre just taking in the sights. 





The sun is shining and it is warm, but you can see from the lack of leaves on all the trees, it's still February and we are not yet into spring. 




Church of Saint-Jean-de-Montmartre, Rue des Abbesses



The Wall of Love - in the Jehan Rictus garden. Created in 2000 by a calligraphist Federic Baron and mural artist Claire Kito. It's 40 square metres of tiles with messages of love in 300 different languages. The little red bits all come together to form a broken heart. Isn't that lovely?



Montmartre is full of examples of art deco.




Up and up to the Basilique du Sacre-Coeur. There is a funicular, but really, why take the easy way?


Built as an act of penance after the bloody 1870 Franco-Prussian war, every hour, day and night since 1st August 1885 (even during WWII), there has been a relay of continuous prayer offering called continuous adoration of the Eucharist. Every evening, after the doors close at 10.30pm, the prayer relay continues, ensured by persons registered for the night, who stay at the Basilica Guest House.




Pictures of stained glass windows seldom do them justice. They are just beautiful.





The view is really worth the effort of getting there.


Heading down the hill we came across this amazing fresh food market. This is the way to shop in Paris!



Time for more wine and feet up - it'd been a very long day.