Franschhoek 22 October 2016

All good things end, sadly. But to end on such a high note was consolation of a kind. And what a treat it was to be invited to La Cotte House by Dom and Helen and also to be invited to the opening exhibition of John Newdigate's Square Clouds in a High Sky ceramics exhibition at Ebony Gallery.

For the non South African readers, Franschhoek is a village about 75km from Cape Town situated in the middle of the most beautiful mountains. The village was founded by French Huguenots fleeing religious persecution in the 1600's and is surrounded by historical vineyards which are still producing wonderful wines to this day.  Even before the Huguenots of course were the Khoi and the San Bushmen, descendents of whom still live in the valley along with the descendents of the French families.

On a grey and wet morning we arrived at La Cotte House which has recently been renovated and restored to, surely more than, it's past glory by Dom and his team.

Luxurious and stylish, definitely, but never intimidating and always comfortable.  To spend time here with a group of friends or family - you could not ask for a more accommodating and effortlessly friendly weekend destination.  Have a look at the website - www.lacottefarm.com - you'll see what I mean.

The sun soon came out and the rest of the guests arrived for lunch. Delicious food, lots of wine, great conversation, a lot of laughter.

A quick walk around the farm to see the work in progress Forest Cottages, then it was time to head into Franschhoek.  On the farm you feel as though you are far from civilisation but in reality, it's a quick 5 minute drive into the village.

John's work is magnificent!  I have some pieces from years back and I'm going to hold on to them!  They will be (are already) collector's pieces. That evening we grilled him about his methods and suffice to say - Unique! Want to see more - http://www.johnnewdigate.com/

It was lovely to see some old friends and to meet some new ones. More champagne was drunk - obligatory in Franschhoek.

Back to the farm and in time for the beautiful evening light.

Sigh ...

The next day we made a quick stop at Boschendal for lunch and a walk around on a very hot day before heading back to Cape Town and a flight back to the cold the next day.

Thank you my friends! Next year in Greece?

Happy Birthday! 20 October 2016

Happy birthday Kate and Dayne!  Dayne is on the other side of the planet though so we had to do this without her.  We missed you!

If you're a South African and in Cape Town on your birthday, Table Mountain gives you a free trip up the mountain in the cable car - isn't that cool?  My tip though, don't go early! I know that's contrary to popular wisdom, but the queues early in the day are horrendous - we waited in the sun for 2 hours. Not fun.  They have great staff who jolly you along, take photos, find out where you're from (my guess that day 90% were foreign) - good move Cable Car Co, diffuses all that irritation.  It's just such a popular destination and the tourists are up early. By the time we got down at about 2.30pm, there was no queue to speak of.

But when you get up there! The views are breathtaking.  The trip up only takes a couple of minutes and each of the 2 cable cars carries 65 passengers (800 an hour, so you can just imagine how long the queue was). The floor of the cable car rotates so you get to see all sides.

If you extend your walk a little bit further than the cable car station, you will see Cape Town laid out for you. It's a really good way of getting your bearings in Cape Town, specially when you realise that it's not just one mountain, but a whole range.

 

The spring flowers are almost over but we did find some arum lilies amongst the rocks.

And the Rock Hyrax was looking for friends  They are ridiculously friendly because visitors tend to feed them but they are wild animals.

Initially we had thought that we would walk down, but the long wait in the queue meant we were running late and when we got to the spot overlooking Platteklip Gorge - see the faint zig-zag path  leading down the middle of the photo? I was very happy that we were taking the cable car down.

 

Happy birthday my darling children!

Swimming with Penguins

This is the best swimming I've ever had in my life. I've swum all my life so I've been into the water in a lot of places, but this place - Water's Edge - this is the best.  It's the secret little beach next to Boulders Beach with deep pools surrounded by kelp forest and huge rocks so even when the wind is howling in the bay, it's almost always relatively calm. On those special days when the water is completely calm and the water is crystal clear, you can see and swim metres down to the sea floor.

 

Even though you are in False Bay, this is still the Atlantic so the water is never warm, but if you swim often enough in Cape Town, you grow accustomed to the low temperatures.  Today was round 11 degrees according to the False Bay weather website, so quite chilly.  The trick is to hang around in the shallows until you go numb, then dive in.  I know that sounds ridiculous but take my word for it, it's worth it.  And you may even get to swim with penguins.  I don't mean in any close proximity but this beach is right next to the colony at Boulders so there are often penguins and you are just another sea creature to them so they just ignore you.

I had the beach to myself, very unusual but I suppose some people have to work ...

The water was absolutely crystal clear and icy. The sun was warm and friendly. Bliss.

Some more penguins

But time to get out and get warm!

The Sweetest Thing - that's the other part of the swimming tradition.  An unpretentious little patisserie in Simonstown - a place for good coffee, excellent cake and pastries. So many delicious treats, it's very hard to choose. If necessary, take some home with you, you won't regret it. Look out for the yellow umbrellas and make sure to stop. 

Out and about

This time of year in Cape Town the weather can be very changeable - up into the 30's one day and then cool and rainy the next. Fortunately the 10 days I was there, I hardly noticed the wind. At this time of year the south easter rears it's head and you think "how can you possibly forget this wind!", but you do, during the winter. I've seen some pictures online of the effects of the wind this last week and it's been a raging monster.  But not on this day.

Elsie's Peak

Simonstown

Monday was sunny and visiting Corinne, we got to take a trip on her paddleboat.  First time I've been on one and more different from a kayak you could hardly get - what a lot of fun and you stay pleasantly dry.  I learnt to kayak on this vlei and spent almost as much time in the water as on top of the boat.  So, reclining on cushions we had an easy trip until we turned back into the wind, then not so easy.

Corrine, the most hospitable host with magic green fingers. Her garden always looks like this!

Ducati (I think, or Suzuki) - what great names for cats! 

Tuesday was hanging out with Kate at Mugg & Bean (who have definitely upped their game with their new menu) at the V&A Waterfront.  This is the closest shopping centre to my home in Woodstock so I know it well. Even in cosmopolitan Cape Town, this is a place where you will hear accents from all over the world.  From what used to be run down docks in the 1980's, this area has become the most vibrant, exciting, tourist destination.

 Alongside the modern shopping centre with cinemas, an aquarium, world class shops and restaurants, is a working harbour and, under construction , a wonderful new modern art gallery - the Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa - the huge building under construction in background.  The old grain silo building is in the process of being turned into 9500 sqm of exciting galleries and art studios. It's due for completion by the end of 2016 so definitely on my list for my next visit.

 If you're a local, this place is best avoided during the festive season, but during the winter an ice cream and a stroll down to look at the boats is a great way of spending time.

Having been back a few days I felt like I've never been away.  It's quite a strange feeling really - like I have 2 lives - one in the UK, which is good if a bit lonely sometimes, but on the whole I'm very content with the the kind of life I have. Then my life in Africa which is my heart life.  It's certainly the people but also the place, the smells, the sounds.  Two weeks once or twice a year is not enough!